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Sante Fe: The "City Different"

What surprised me most about returning to Santa Fe after 27 years was how little it had changed. Native Americans still sold well-made geegaws in front of Palace of the Governors and the beige adobe shops, galleries and museums of the main Plaza seemed untouched by time. And the people were still friendly at America's oldest capital city which is nestled 7000 feet in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains,

I later learned that my comparatively new (built in 1986) hotel, the Eldorado, was a shocking five floors, taller than any other structure in this seemingly minuscule burg of 37.4 square miles and about 65,000 full-time residents. The estimated number of visitors is much higher, 1-2 million annually, and one wonders where they put them all, because it seemed relatively uncrowded (summer months are busiest).

But Santa Fe punches its own time clock, and it's more like a sundial. A flavorful mix of three cultures - Native American, Hispanic, and Wild West — it's a combination of low-tech Pueblo architecture, high desert and some of the most amazing art around, both on display and for purchase.

We began our excursion with a walking tour. Despite appearances, the city has grown considerably, adding more space, for example, to the Palace of the Governors. Since it was built by the Spanish in 1610, this means that any renovation is more like an archeological dig. So what may be found in the layers of dirt outside may end up on as part of an exhibit at this museum which focuses on New Mexico history and is the nation's oldest public building still in continuous use.

Next we stopped at St. Francis Cathedral, whose Gothic-looking French Romanesque architecture stands out in stark contrast to its surroundings. Built in 1869 by Archbishop Lamy, it was constructed over the site of a church destroyed in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, replacing a later adobe church called La Parroquia, much to dismay of the native population.

Also steeped in local lore is the Chapel of San Miguel, the city's oldest house of worship built in 1626. Nothing of the original structure remains, having been burnt down during the Pueblo Revolt. It was completely redone in 1710 and purchased nearly 150 years later by Archbishop Lamy and the Christian Brothers of Santa Fe who made it part of a college. However, with its unadorned adobe front and simple cross, it retains the flavor of a Spanish mission.

Other sites include Loretto Chapel and its "miraculous" spiral staircase which has two 360-degree turns and no visible means of support, among other mysteries; the Museum of Fine Arts, with its extensive collections of Southwestern and contemporary artists; and the State Capitol which is built in the shape of the state's Zia sun symbol, and has its own art display.

But a real magnet is the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum. A novice to the art world, I spent a few hours at this user-friendly attraction learning about her peripatetic life as well as her stunning and sensual American Modernist paintings, drawings, and sculptures. We also stopped at the gift shop, whose reasonable prices were offset by several purchases and the O'Keeffe Café whose menu and decor is as original (and abundant) as its namesake's work.

The next day, we headed towards Museum Hill. OK, this might seem like overkill but when you're at one of the three top art destinations in the country, it's hard to resist. And our first stop, the Museum of International Folk Art, caters to nearly every sensibility. Stuffed with colorful fabrics, paintings, dolls and ethnic crafts from hundreds of cultures, its many and huge rooms encompassed eras from prehistoric to Spanish Colonial to contemporary. Native works from the American South peacefully coexist with those from countries such as Ethiopia and Iraq.

Along with containing more than 10 million artifacts of which only a fraction are displayed, the adjacent Museum of Indian Arts & Culture uses poetry, story, song, and dance to illustrate two thousand years of Native American history. And the smallest but newest addition to the Hill, the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, boasts rooms furnished with authentic pieces and adorned with santos, painted and sculpted images of saints; elaborate textiles; and ornate adornments of tin, silver, iron and gold, such as the huge hair combs worn by senoritas. Aficionados of religious objects should check out the gift shop with its one-of-a-kind decoupage crosses.

Those wanting to view contemporary and historic art and crafts from all Native American cultures can make a detour at the nearby Wheelwright. Pottery, jewelry, textiles and outdoor sculptures are set amidst a traditional Navajo hogan.

By now, we were thinking of purchasing some beauty for ourselves. But before we stopped at Canyon Road, a main drag for galleries, we put on the old feedbag at the Santacafe. Originally built circa 1860, it was once the residence of Jose Manual Gallegos, a controversial and colorful priest and politician (he'd have to be with that resume). Defrocked by Bishop Lamy in 1852, he later married and became a powerful force in building the territory. Today his former crib is a chic eatery with a fusion menu and a glass floor in the bar where you can look down and see the remains of an old mine.

You'll need a map (and good shoes) to traverse the two-mile stretch of Canyon Road. One hundred of Santa Fe's 230 galleries and studios are located here. Once used by Spanish settlers as a trade route, it is now Ground Zero for contemporary and other kinds of art. Among the galleries we visited were Marigold Arts, with its handwoven fabrics in a rainbow of colors; Patricia Carlisle Fine Arts, whose witty "Cats I've known - 1st litter" portraits complemented a wide array of paintings, sculpture, and jewelry; and the Morningstar Gallery, renowned for its antique Native American beadwork, pottery, basketry, clothing and more. If you miss one Chiraroscuro Gallery there's another just down the road. The Zaplin-Lampert Gallery encompasses the whole enchilada: classic Western art, original paintings and prints from early Taos and Santa Fe, traditional Mexican and New Mexican furniture, and a garden with works of contemporary sculptors.

Speaking of which, we had yet to sample the Southwestern cuisine which helped put Santa Fe on the culinary map. Located within walking distance of another lodging we stayed at, the luxurious-yet-homey Native-American owned Hotel Santa Fe, was Tomasitas. At this local favorite was real Mexican food, as well as killer margaritas (later I found out that margaritas have approximately 65 calories per ounce which would have added up to about two days' worth of food in my case, including chips, salsa, and meal itself).

The next day we drove back to Albuquerque, the nearest major airport hub. The route in and out is pleasant and only about an hour if you take I-25. It offers stunning views of the mountains and amazing colors, especially during the early morning or dusk. However we took Highway 14, known as the Turquoise Trail.

Allow at least an extra two hours to explore this scenic national byway. Here you'll catch glimpses the "real" New Mexico: the quaint town of Cerrillos with its dirt streets and Old West storefronts; Madrid (pronounced Mad-rid, not like the Spanish city) with its funky, 1970s 'tude and eclectic art, and Golden, the site of the first (1825) gold rush West of the Mississippi. These and other landmarks played a major role in the development of the region and provided turquoise, coal, lead, and other valuable minerals.

I still get compliments on the handcrafted moonstone and gold ring that I'd gotten in Santa Fe so many years ago. Like the area itself, it has held its value.

Kansas: Fun in Flyover Country

What can you say about a place that, at times, has more cattle than people? That was called "the great American desert" by explorer Zebulon Pike, discoverer of Pike's Peak in Colorado and one of the founders of Minneapolis? That has millions and millions of acres of undulating, virtually treeless prairie? That's the source of endless jokes and remarks about Dorothy not being there any more?

Actually, quite a lot. People were surprised when I told them what I saw and did during a recent trip to the Council Grove, Flint Hills and Abilene regions. Many believe that once you leave Kansas City — a good part of which is in Missouri anyway — all that's left is cowboys in pickup trucks and Indian arrow heads.

Big Pow-Wow at Council Grove

There's no denying the pioneer and Native American heritage of the region. It is especially prevalent in Council Grove, about a two-hour drive from Kansas City (take US 35 South to K-56 West at the Gardner — not old 56 — exit). A boom town during the 1800s exodus down the Santa Fe Trail, the area was distinguished by a stand of trees which made it the final stopping point before the trek further west. This was hardly a quick trip to the bathroom: supplies purchased at the Last Chance Store, today reincarnated as a post office and government building, had to be stretched for several weeks or even months, depending upon the weather, destination and other conditions. Back then, mail service was literally up a tree — letters were left in a hollowed-out trunk of what was known as the Post Office Oak. It's clustered along Main St./56 with the Guardian of the Grove and Madonna of the Trail statues, which honor Indians and pioneer mothers respectively and the Neosho River Crossing, a natural rock bed over which thousands of settlers journeyed in their covered wagons, among other places of interest.

A stroll down the scenic Neosho Riverwalk will take you to the Kaw Mission State Historic Site and Museum (316/767-5410). The Kaw or Kansa Indians, after which the state is named, also had a reservation in Council Grove (the other main tribe was the Osage). Built in 1851, this two-story stone structure now houses artifacts from the school for mostly orphaned or disabled Native American boys and the family who taught them, Thomas and Eliza Huffaker. Council Grove also hosts s pow-wow every June and on odd-numbered years is the site of a historical pageant, "Voices of the Wind People." The 2001 presentation will be held on September 21 and 22 (316/767-5410). Down the road a bit is the Hermit's Cave, where Father Giovanni Maria Augustini lived, ministering to the local natives. He stayed only a brief while, walking the 500 miles to Santa Fe in the company of a wagon train.

Before getting out of Dodge, so to speak, stop by the Hayes House (317/767-5911) for some vittles. Actually the menu is quite varied and contemporary, ranging from steaks to ham to chicken salad to dessert to breakfasts. You can walk off the meal by exploring the historic building, built by Council Grove founder Seth Hayes in 1857. Along with being chock full of artifacts and native materials (yes, there is an arrowhead collection) it also served time as a church, government bureau, newspaper office and spot for theatricals. A few blocks away is the Seth Hayes home where this lifelong bachelor lived with his former slave Sally and took care of her and her family who resided on the premises as well. The nature of their relationship is the subject of long-term speculation (open Sundays and by special appointment; call 800/732-9211 for information).

Earth, Wind and Fire

A short (10 minutes or so) drive down K-177 S which bisects 56 will take you to the 11,000 acre Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve (316/273-6034). Located in the Flint Hills, which comprises 30-40 miles of untouched land, it gives new meaning to "the middle of nowhere," which is why you must look carefully for the sign that differentiates this from other large ranches. Kansas highways also tend to veer off suddenly so keep a sharp eye out for your designated road. And bring plenty of bottled water as it may not be readily available in certain locations and it's easy to become dehydrated in the arid plains.

The awesome and colorful ecosystem supports four different kinds of tallgrasses as well as 40 species of grama, buffalo, and other grasses and wild blossoms including the state symbol, the sunflower; 200 types of birds; 30 breeds of mammals, plus reptiles and amphibians; along with an estimated 10 million insects per acre. The latter was borne out with an early autumn explosion of grasshoppers at every step. The prairie is also prime eating for wild and domestic animals, particularly cattle. Every spring, restricted range burning happens to control weeds and stimulate growth of grassland. Over the summer, steers and heifers are brought in — Club Med for cows — before being shipped off to feedlots and, eventually, grocery stores.

Along with participating in an hour-and-a-half bus tour of the prairie, you can explore the Z-Bar/Spring Hill Ranch, the native-cut limestone, Empire-style manor of cattleman Stephen Jones. Since the 1800s, Kansas limestone has been mined for structures all over the country. Nearby are a huge three-story barn originally used to store cattle in the wintertime and the one-room Lower Fox Creek School. Nature trail walks are also available, with paths being studded with steel-like chert, also known as flint, formed hundreds of millions of years ago, providing the area its name.

For those who prefer self-guided or vehicular-based excursions, less than an hour north up 177 is the Konza Prairie (785/587-0441). Named after yet another variation of the Kansa tribal moniker, this intact 8,600-acre preserve serves as a field research station for Kansas State University and is only open to the public in a limited capacity. Once every two years, the facility holds a Fall Visitors Day, with the next one being scheduled sometime in 2002. But you're free to wander about in designated areas during business hours.

Did Someone Say "Shopping?"

Parts of the prairie are surprisingly sophisticated. Cottonwood Falls, a few minutes further south on 177 from the Tallgrass Preserve, has emporiums galore amid well-preserved Old West storefronts. Prices are right, too. I got a pair of blue-jean stud earrings with sterling silver posts for about $3.00 at the Fiber Factory (316/273-8686), which not has only handwoven items, but a rope machine so you can make your own (enough to hang oneself?). Along with a nice selection of clothing, Jim Bell & Son (316/273-6381) offers an array of Brighton silver women's watches that might be the envy of a larger city, while the Holiday Boutique (316/273-8314) provides more outfits and jewelry at small-town costs. Croy's (316/373-6412) is much more than your basic hardware store - it has furniture, hunting and fishing licenses, carpeting, even a dead stuffed squirrel that the owner ran over in his driveway (sorry, it's not for sale).

Cottonwood Falls also boasts the Grand Central Hotel and Grill (800/951-6763, www.grandcentralhotel.com). This restored structure is chock full of resplendent wood and amenities, including a full-service gourmet restaurant that gets booked up weeks in advance. It also has a good selection of what Kansas is famous for — sirloin, prime rib, whatever parts of the well-fed bovine you prefer. From the hotel you can see the Chase County Courthouse, a striking French Renaissance edifice. Completed in 1873, it's the oldest working courthouse west of the Mississippi and continues to be utilized. Interior highlights include a 40-foot spiral walnut staircase and the tantalizing possibility of getting a glimpse of "People's Court," Cottonwood-Falls style (weekdays only). You won't see anyone getting hauled off, though: the last convict to reside in the Cowboy Jail down the street at Broadway and Main was in 1883.

Meanwhile, Back To the Ranch...

No excursion to Kansas would be complete without at least a taste of the "real" Old West. Among several options are ecology, horsemanship, and ranching experiences for women and youth at the Homestead Ranch in Matfield Green (south on 177, 316/753-3416). They offer a variety of programs. Among other things, you can do chores and help feed the animals. One thing I learned was never to turn your back on a baby calf unless you want a nose up the rear.

Those looking to jolt into the past can opt for the Flint Hills Overland Wagon Train (316/321-6300, www.wagontrainkansas.com) held every other weekend from June to September (another alternative is Covered Wagon Train Trips out of Newton, 316/283-2636, www.kscoveredwagon.com). Events begin Saturday morning at the Cassoday Cafe off 177S, a hangout for cowboy "regulars." People garb up in jeans and pioneer duds; cell phones, video games, and laptops are left behind as you adjoin to a nearby Chase County ranch, the camp's actual location. Lunch can get tossed around a bit during the afternoon covered wagon ride. Fortunately these vehicles only go 2.5 miles per hour so your insides can settle a bit if you walk alongside the procession. Also try not to confuse donkeys with horses and mules: Initially I thought the trail boss was "funnin' me" about what was pulling our wagon, until I noticed the upright ears and shorter mane of the latter, making me feel somewhat like the former. At various points, trail bosses and others explain local flora, fauna, and cowboy customs. Dinner includes beef stew, beans 'n franke and other grub and coffee brewed in a (hopefully clean) sock, while entertainment consists of cowboy poetry, tall, tales and singing. You can also spend the night.

Old Homes, Presidents and Greyhounds

Since the ground is a place I prefer to sit and not sleep on, I jumped into my vehicle and headed for Abilene, ready for a dose of city lights, however small they might be. It's an easy, scenic ride of about an hour-and-a-half up 177N to I-70 W, and certainly worth the detour, particularly if you're a museum and history buff. Most of Abilene's eclectic assortment of attractions are close together, easily accessed from K-15S/ Buckeye street exit.

Even those who didn't "like Ike" might want to stop at the Eisenhower Center (785/263-4751). The childhood home of the 34th President and also his and wife Mamie's burial place, this 22-acre complex contains five buildings: the family residence, where tourists are ushered through quickly or brusquely, depending upon the demeanor of the guide; and a visitor's center/ auditorium which runs a regularly scheduled film on Ike's life. Along with the usual relics and childhood artifacts, the museum has a fascinating display of Mamie's and other First Lady's clothing, reinforcing my childhood impression that between her hairstyle and choice of outfits (often garish or unflatteringly cut) the former was in dire need of fashion policing. In addition to having a full collection of Presidential papers and photographs, the marble-and-glass library offers a stunning architectural space, suitable for just about any gathering, save a rat skinnin' or hangin,' activities in the area's not-so-distant past. The mausoleum, called the "Place of Meditation" is eerily quiet and almost too peaceful, reminding one that no matter how rich or powerful, we all end up the same way.

It's also easy to get hung up at the Dickinson County Historical Center and Museum of Independent Telephony (785/263-2681) even if you don't buy into the party line about how great phone service is these days. With approximately 500 phones of all eras, shapes, and sizes including rare models, a re-creation of a 19th century telephone exchange, and display of classy coin-operated pay stations, it offers more ringers than the WWF. For those who like racing, a different sort of fix can be found at the Greyhound Hall of Fame (800/932-7881). Here you'll learn about the genealogy of this distinguished animal and the sport that made him famous. I particularly enjoyed the chance to visit with two resident greyhounds and the neat selection of canine collars in the gift shop, although my two cats would not have been amused. Other stops of interest to buffs include the Fashion Museum (785/263-7997), the Kansas Sports Hall of Fame (785/263-7403, www.kshof.org), and the Antique Doll Museum (785/263-1883). Additionally a wide variety of crafts in several media can be found at American Indian Art Center (785/263-0090) which carries the work of 100 artisans from 30 tribes.

Abilene also boasts dueling historic homes: The Seelye Mansion (785/263-1084) and the Lebold Vahsholtz Mansion (by appointment only, 785/263-4356). While vastly different, they're both worth seeing. Built in 1905 by Dr. and Mrs. A.B. Seelye and furnished with many innovations from the World's Fair of the previous year, it was the childhood-to-death residence of their two unmarried daughters. Many of the fixtures are original and in working condition, such as a bowling alley in the basement, and furniture and draperies in the light and airy rooms appear almost untouched by time. The grounds, patio, and fish pond have been refurbished using period landscape drawings.

The Lebold Vahsholtz Mansion has much humbler roots and in fact started out as dugout and cabin where the first white child in the county is said to have been born. In 1881, C.H. Lebold, who made his fortune in banking, land development, and other enterprises, constructed a 23-room abode there with a tower that looked out over the city. However, by the turn of the last century, both building and owner fell on hard times and the mansion was sold, serving as a boarding house, orphanage and finally, shabby apartments. Purchased by the Vahsholtz family in the 1970s, it was completely restored with period pieces, only a few which were from the original structure. Yet the woodwork, roofing, carpeting, and fixtures recapture the Victorian era's ornamentation and attention to detail. And you can visit both the original dugout and roof perch, thanks to Vahsholtzs' dedication in removing truckloads of pigeon manure from the latter.

Before easing on the down the road, you might want fill your personal fuel tank at the Brookville Hotel (785/263-2244, www.brookvillehotel.com). But you'd better like fried chicken, mashed potatoes, corn, biscuits, cole slaw, and ice cream because that's all that's on the menu, all the time. Then it's time to follow the yellow brick road home.

The Burgundy Room - Columbus

The hit movie "Sideways" only reinforced what Michael Reames, one of the owners of the Burgundy Room in Columbus, has known all along: Wine and a sophisticated atmosphere make an irresistible combination. "I saw how successful wine bar concepts were in other cities, so I figured it would go over well here," he says. He also was entranced with the idea of tapas, or small plates. "We wanted to create an informal, fun environment that stimulates lively conversation." The Short North, with its eclectic shops and restaurants and artsy milieu "was the ideal location." When it opened in May 2003, it became immediately popular. Often there's a line of people outside waiting to get in, especially on weekends.

Its success is the result of a harmonious combination of décor, food and wine. Painted in deep hues and warm colors, the walls help create an intimate, almost cave-like environment, especially in back, which has a fireplace and sheer curtains and private, circular booths with high-topped tables.

Reames designed the menu with specific clientele in mind. "We have small portions, which really appeals to women," he observes. "They make up about 65 percent of our clientele. And where women are, the men will follow." The menu is divided into small plate portions and "food flights," which are basically lighter combinations of various offerings.

Much of what's served up is $10, often less, and is actually plenty to eat. Among the several starters are the baby spinach salad with goat cheese croutons and poppyseed vinaigrette ($6); a thick, hearty cheddar and potato soup with bacon ($6); and the special soup of the day — if you’re lucky, a flavorful but light roasted carrot puree with curry and cumin yogurt ($5). The main courses also cover a wide spectrum and include the almost sweet-tasting fried butternut squash ravioli with braised red cabbage and sage cream sauce ($7); BBQ glazed baby-back ribs with homemade onion relish and waffle-cut potato chips ($10); and for sushi lovers, tuna tartar with ginger wasabi dressing ($9). Desserts provide the sweetest taste of Columbus; many come from local favorites like Pistachio bakery and Jeni’s Fresh Ice Cream.

The wine list is encyclopedic, with recommended pairings for certain plates. Knowledgeable servers can suggest certain pours based on customer preferences. Close to 40 whites and reds from France, Spain, Italy and California are offered by the glass ($5.25-$13). The approximately 200 bottle selections are reasonably priced, with many in the $30-40 range. Wine flights ($8-$20) consist of samples highlighting a particular grape, region or style.

Although happy hour is every night, from 4-7 p.m., with $1 off beer and liquor, wines remain the same price. That hardly deters the clientele, which runs the gamut from Baby Boomers to twentysomethings. "More and more people are drinking wine, and at younger ages," observes Reames. They can anticipate a second Burgundy Room that's planned for the suburb of Dublin this fall.

 
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